County Laois
Slieve Bloom Mountains, bogland silence, river valleys, and Ireland’s most underrated walking county
Leinster • Inland CountyLaois is the county people drive through. M7 to Limerick. M8 to Cork. Nobody stops. That is your advantage.
The Slieve Bloom Mountains run along the western border and they are some of the best dog walking terrain in Ireland. Not high. Not dramatic in the Kerry way. But empty, wild, forested, and crossed with trails that nobody uses. The Slieve Bloom Way is a 77 km waymarked loop and on a midweek morning you will have it to yourself.
Below the mountains, Laois is farmland, river valleys, small towns, and bog. The Barrow runs through the east. The Nore cuts through Durrow and Abbeyleix. Emo Court has one of the finest estate grounds in the country. And the bogland west of Portlaoise is a landscape like no other.
Laois is not flashy. It does not need to be. If your dog wants mountains, forests, rivers, and space without the crowds, this is the county.
Interactive Map
Every location in this guide, pinned and colour-coded.
Slieve Bloom Mountains
The backbone of Laois walking. A 77 km waymarked loop, multiple access points, waterfalls, ridge walks, river glens, and ancient oak woodland. The highest point is Arderin at 527 m. Not high by Kerry or Wicklow standards, but the isolation is real.
Glenbarrow Waterfall and Ridge Walk
The signature Laois walk. Start at the car park, follow the river through native oak woodland to the waterfall. Cross at the stepping stones, climb through forestry to the ridge, then loop back along the Slieve Bloom Way. The waterfall is the photo stop but the ridge section is the real walk. Open mountain, blanket bog, 360-degree views. Your dog will be in the river within the first five minutes and on the open mountain within thirty.
The Cut: Glendine Gap
The Cut is the mountain pass through the Slieve Blooms on the R422. The car park at the top is a natural starting point. Walk north or south along the Slieve Bloom Way. Heading south takes you toward Glendine East with views down into the valleys. Heading north goes toward Wolftrap Mountain. Either direction is empty, open mountain walking. Pick your distance and turn around.
Arderin Summit (Highest Point)
527 metres. Not high but the views are immense because everything around is flat. On a clear day you can see the Galtees, the Knockmealdowns, the Wicklow Mountains, and across the midlands to Galway. The summit area is blanket bog and can be very wet. Navigation is straightforward in good visibility but bring a map in mist.
Capard Loop (via Stoney Man)
Waymarked loop from the Capard car park. Takes in the Stoney Man viewpoint which looks out over the midlands. The boardwalk section through the blanket bog is well-maintained. Good combination of forest, open mountain, and views without the commitment of a full ridge walk.
Monicknew Loop
Waymarked loop on the northern side of the Slieve Blooms. Forest walking with sections through Sitka spruce and natural woodland. Less dramatic than Glenbarrow but quieter. Good for dogs who prefer forest floor to open mountain.
Slieve Bloom Way (Full Circuit)
The full Slieve Bloom Way is a 77 km circuit of the mountain range. It can be broken into day sections from multiple access points (The Cut, Glenbarrow, Capard, Monicknew, Kinnitty). The terrain varies from forest to open mountain to river glen. Wild camping is tolerated on the mountain. For a multi-day walk with a dog in the midlands, there is nothing else like it.
Forest Walks (Outside Slieve Bloom)
Emo Court and Parklands
Designed by James Gandon (the man who built the Custom House in Dublin). Massive estate grounds with a lake, formal gardens, and extensive woodland walks. The lakeside walk through mature trees is the best route. The parkland extends far beyond the formal gardens and there is real space to explore. OPW-managed, free entry, and one of the finest estate walks in the midlands.
Heywood Gardens
Designed by Edwin Lutyens with gardens by Gertrude Jekyll. Smaller than Emo but exquisite. The sunken garden and terrace walks are beautiful. Less space for a dog to run than Emo, but a lovely stop combined with Abbeyleix.
Abbeyleix Bog Walk
Community-led conservation project. A raised bog with a boardwalk through it. Rare habitats, insectivorous plants, and an atmosphere that is completely different from anything else in the county. The bog was saved from Bord na Mona extraction by local campaigners. Walk it. It matters.
Ballaghmore Forest
Small Coillte forest near the M7 corridor. Nobody knows about it. Forest roads through mixed plantation. Flat, easy, quiet. Good for a stop if you are driving through.
Durrow Woods / Castle Durrow Estate
Woodland walks along the Erkina River near Durrow village. The Castle Durrow estate has grounds worth exploring. The riverside section has good access for dogs to swim. Durrow itself is a pretty village with a few places to stop.
Stradbally Woods
Small woodland near Stradbally (home of the Electric Picnic site). Coillte plantation with decent tracks. Nothing spectacular but a good quiet walk when you need one.
River Walks
River Nore: Durrow to Abbeyleix (Sections)
The Nore rises in the Slieve Blooms and flows south through Laois into Kilkenny. The stretch between Durrow and Abbeyleix passes through farmland with access from both towns. Informal riverside walking in places but the river itself is beautiful and the dog can swim.
River Erkina, Durrow
The Erkina flows through Durrow and joins the Nore. Short riverside walks through the village and Castle Durrow estate. Shallow enough for dog paddling at several points.
River Barrow: Portarlington Area
The upper Barrow flows through eastern Laois near Portarlington. Less dramatic than the Barrow further south in Carlow, but the river banks offer informal walking and the dog can get into the water.
Glenbarrow River Trail
If you just want the river section without the full ridge loop, walk from the car park to the waterfall and back. 4 km return through native oak woodland alongside the river. The dog will not be dry at any point.
Bogland Walks
Western Laois is bog country. The Bog of Allen extends through here and there are pockets of cutaway and raised bog with access. Different to any other landscape.
Abbeyleix Bog Boardwalk
Covered in the forest section above. The premier bog walk in the county. Boardwalk through a raised bog saved from extraction. Community-managed and well-maintained.
Derryounce Lakes and Trails
Cutaway bog rehabilitated into lakes and wetland. Walking trails around the lakes with boardwalk sections. Good bird life. A landscape created from industrial peat extraction now turned into something wild again. Dogs on lead because of nesting birds and wetland habitats.
Clonaslee Bog Roads
The bog roads running from Clonaslee toward the Slieve Blooms cross open bogland. No trails, no signs, no people. Just flat peat roads and silence. Bring OS Map 54 and know how to read it. The dog will walk ahead and keep checking back because there is genuinely nothing else out here.
Quick Energy Burner Walks (10-30 minutes)
Portlaoise People’s Park / Triogue Linear Park
Linear park along the River Triogue through Portlaoise. Paved paths, riverside, and green spaces. 15 to 25 minutes depending on how far you go. Not wild but functional for a quick walk in the county town.
Mountmellick River Walk
Short riverside walk through Mountmellick along the Owenass River. Community-maintained paths. 15 minutes. Quiet town, quiet river, quick leg stretch.
Portarlington Riverside
Walk along the Barrow through Portarlington. Short, flat, paved sections. 10 to 15 minutes. Good for a stop if you are passing through on the train.
Abbeyleix Town Walk
Heritage town with tree-lined streets. Walk through the town and out to the bog boardwalk for a 30-minute circuit. One of the prettiest towns in the midlands.
Durrow Village Loop
Loop around Durrow village via the castle grounds and riverside. 20 minutes. Good combination of village streetscape, estate grounds, and river.
Rock of Dunamase (Quick Version)
Car park to summit and back. 15 minutes. Steep but short. Views at the top. Done.
Dog Swimming Spots
Mountain rivers, lowland rivers, and rehabilitated bog lakes. No coast but plenty of water.
Glenbarrow River
Clear mountain water, rocky pools, easy access from the trail. Multiple entry points from car park to waterfall. Shallow, safe, and the dogs love it.
Delour Valley Pools
The best dog swimming in the Slieve Blooms. Deeper pools than Glenbarrow, wider river, sheltered under mature oak canopy. The pools are naturally scooped into the riverbed and deep enough for a full swim. Gentle banks for older dogs. No crowds. This is the one the locals use.
River Barrow at Lea Castle
Swim below a 13th-century Norman castle. The Barrow here is wide and calm enough for dogs. Access from the castle ruin area. One of the most atmospheric swimming spots in the midlands. Your dog does not care about the history but you will.
Owenass River above Mountmellick
The Owenass comes down from the Slieve Blooms and has shallow wading spots above the town. Not deep swimming but good paddling for dogs who prefer to keep their feet on the bottom. Clean mountain water.
River Nore at Durrow
Access from Castle Durrow estate area. The Nore is wider here than in the mountains but still shallow enough for paddling in summer. Gravel banks at several points.
River Erkina at Durrow
Tributary of the Nore. Shallow, gentle, perfect for dogs. Access through the village.
River Nore at Abbeyleix
Access via estate walks south of the town. The river here is calm and the banks are gentle. Good for a paddle after the bog boardwalk.
River Barrow at Portarlington
Upper Barrow. Narrower and shallower than further downstream. Some access from the town walks.
Derryounce Lakes
Rehabilitated bog lakes near Portarlington. The lakes are open water and dogs can swim. Check signage on site as policies may apply.
Dog-Friendly Cafes, Pubs & Restaurants
Laois is not overflowing with cafes, but the ones worth stopping at are good. Abbeyleix and Durrow are the best towns for food stops.
Bramley Cafe and Deli, Abbeyleix
Good local cafe on the main street. Stop here before or after the bog boardwalk. Abbeyleix is a heritage town and worth a wander with the dog.
Morrissey’s Pub, Abbeyleix
Famous traditional pub. One of the most photographed pub fronts in Ireland. Whether the dog gets in depends on the day and the publican. Worth asking. If not, the outdoor bench with a pint is grand.
Castle Durrow (Castle Arms Hotel)
Durrow village has a couple of options including the hotel. Good stop after the riverside walk. The village hosts the Durrow Scarecrow Festival in summer, which is genuinely fun.
Mountrath Town Cafes
Mountrath is the natural base for the Slieve Bloom Mountains on the Laois side. Small town with a few cafes and shops. Stock up here before heading into the mountains.
Clonaslee Village
Tiny village on the northern approach to the Slieve Blooms. Limited options but it is the nearest settlement to the Monicknew walks. Check what is open before relying on it.
Rosenallis Community Cafe
Small village near Glenbarrow. The nearest food stop to the main Slieve Bloom trailheads on the Laois side. Call ahead to check opening hours and dog policy. Rural Ireland, things can be flexible.
Portlaoise Town Cafes
County town with the most options. Several cafes on Main Street with outdoor seating. Good base for Emo Court and the Rock of Dunamase.
Places to Stay
Castle Durrow
Type: Castle hotel. Location: Durrow. Dog Policy: Check when booking. Price Range: Mid to high.
Beautiful setting with extensive grounds. If they take dogs, the riverside walks start at the door. Contact directly.
Roundwood House
Type: Georgian country house. Location: Mountrath. Dog Policy: Historically dog-friendly. Confirm when booking. Price Range: Mid.
One of Ireland’s finest country houses. Right at the base of the Slieve Blooms. If they still welcome dogs, this is the perfect Slieve Bloom base. Parkland for evening walks.
Self-Catering / Airbnb
Search pet-friendly options around Mountrath, Clonaslee, and Abbeyleix. The best Laois experience is a cottage near the Slieve Blooms. You walk from the door into the mountains.
Ivyleigh House, Portlaoise
Type: B&B. Location: Portlaoise. Dog Policy: Check when booking. Price Range: Mid.
Central Portlaoise location. Handy for Emo Court, Rock of Dunamase, and as a base for anywhere in the county.
Camping
Limited formal options but the Slieve Blooms have excellent wild camping potential.
Wild Camping: Slieve Bloom Mountains
Wild camping is tolerated on the Slieve Bloom Mountains. Camp on open mountain above the forest line, leave no trace. The ridge areas near The Cut and Capard have flat ground with views. Water from mountain streams (treat or filter). This is the best camping option in Laois by far.
Stradbally (Electric Picnic Site Area)
The Stradbally Estate hosts Electric Picnic in September but outside of festival season the area is quiet farmland. No formal campsite but check locally for options.
South Laois / Barrow Valley
The area near Abbeyleix and Durrow connects south to the Barrow Valley camping covered in the Kilkenny and Carlow guides. Abbeyleix makes a good day-trip base from a campsite in either adjacent county.
Car/Van Overnight Spots
Arrive late, leave early, leave no trace, keep the dog quiet.
Glenbarrow Car Park
Quiet at night. Forest setting. Wake up and walk straight to the waterfall. Probably the best car-sleeping spot in Laois. Remote enough that nobody will bother you.
The Cut Car Park (Slieve Bloom)
Mountain pass car park. Exposed but quiet. Views in every direction. First light on the Slieve Blooms from your van window. Walk onto the mountain before breakfast.
Capard Car Park
Another Slieve Bloom option. Slightly more sheltered than The Cut. Close to the Capard Loop and ridge viewpoint.
Emo Court Car Park
Large OPW car park. Quiet at night. The estate grounds are right there for an early morning walk. Check OPW car park hours as gates may close.
Rock of Dunamase Car Park
Small car park at the base. Quiet at night. Walk up to the ruins at sunset or sunrise. Atmospheric.
Dog Services
Veterinary Clinics
Portlaoise: Multiple vet practices. Main centre for the county.
Mountmellick: Vet clinic covering north-central Laois.
Abbeyleix: Vet clinic covering south Laois.
Mountrath: Check for local vet coverage. Nearest major practice is Portlaoise.
Portarlington: Vet practice covering east Laois.
Dog Grooming
Groomers in Portlaoise and surrounding towns. Book ahead. After a Slieve Bloom walk through peat bog, your dog will need one.
Dog Day Care and Boarding
Facilities in and around Portlaoise. Always visit before booking.
Pet Stores
Portlaoise: Maxi Zoo and local pet stores. Main shopping centre for the county.
Dog Rescues
Laois SPCA: Local animal welfare covering the county. Dogs Trust: National rehoming (Finglas, Dublin) covers Laois area.
Dog-Friendly Activities Beyond Walking
Barrow Kayaking
The upper Barrow near Portarlington is navigable for kayaks. Some operators may accommodate dogs. Check locally. Calmer water than the Barrow further south.
Durrow Scarecrow Festival (August)
Annual festival in Durrow village. Outdoor event with scarecrow displays through the town. Dog-friendly by nature. Fun half-day out combined with a river walk.
Heritage and Garden Visits
Emo Court grounds, Heywood Gardens, Rock of Dunamase, Timahoe Round Tower, Aghaboe Abbey. All outdoor, all accessible with a dog (on lead at heritage sites).
Slieve Bloom Mountain Biking
Forest roads in the Slieve Blooms are used for mountain biking. If your dog is comfortable running alongside a bike, the forest roads are wide and quiet enough for both. Not formal bike trails but the surface works.
Seasonal Warnings
Emergency Contacts
Emergency Services: 999 or 112
Mountain Rescue: Dial 999, ask for Mountain Rescue. The South Eastern Mountain Rescue Association (SEMRA) covers the Slieve Blooms.
Gardai (Non-Emergency):
Portlaoise Garda Station: (057) 867 4100
Abbeyleix Garda Station: (057) 873 1263
Mountrath Garda Station: (057) 873 2112
Portarlington Garda Station: (057) 862 3112
Veterinary Emergencies:
Contact your nearest vet during opening hours. For after-hours emergencies, most practices have out-of-hours numbers on voicemail. UCD Veterinary Hospital 24-hour emergency: (01) 716 6034.
Public Transport with Dogs
Irish Rail (Dublin to Cork/Limerick Lines)
Portlaoise is on the main Dublin to Cork and Dublin to Limerick rail lines. Portarlington is also on the main line. Dogs travel free on Irish Rail. Useful for getting to the county but the Slieve Blooms and most walks require a car from the train station.
Bus Eireann
Bus services connect Portlaoise to Dublin and other towns. Small dogs in carriers may be accepted. Large dogs are difficult on buses. Not reliable for accessing walking routes.
Local Link
Rural bus service connecting smaller Laois towns. Limited schedules. Check routes and dog policies individually. Useful for village-to-village connections if they align with your route.
Rainy Day Options
Pet Stores: Maxi Zoo in Portlaoise allows dogs inside. Browse and buy. 20 minutes.
Covered Cafes: Check Abbeyleix and Portlaoise for cafes with covered outdoor areas.
Emo Court Grounds: The mature tree canopy provides decent rain cover. A woodland walk in light rain is still a walk.
Donadea Forest (Kildare, 40 min drive): If the rain is heavy and you need tree cover, the forests provide shelter.
Embrace It: The Slieve Blooms in rain are atmospheric. Waterproofs, walk, towel in the car. The forest sections have canopy cover. The mountain sections are exposed but the dog does not care about rain. You should not either.
Planning: Best For…
Best for mountain walking:
Slieve Bloom Mountains. The Cut, Glenbarrow, Arderin summit. 77 km of waymarked trail and nobody on it.
Best for waterfalls:
Glenbarrow. Clear mountain river through oak forest to a proper waterfall. The dog swims the whole way.
Best for estate grounds:
Emo Court. Gandon-designed house, 55 acres of parkland, lake, mature trees, free OPW entry.
Best for bogland:
Abbeyleix Bog Boardwalk. Community-saved raised bog with proper boardwalk access. Unique.
Best for history:
Rock of Dunamase. Norman castle ruins on a rock. 15-minute walk, massive views, free.
Best for river swimming:
Delour Valley pools. Deeper, wider, quieter than Glenbarrow. The best-kept swimming secret in the Slieve Blooms. Glenbarrow river is the runner-up. Lea Castle on the Barrow for lowland swimming with atmosphere.
Best for solitude:
Clonaslee bog roads, Glenafelly Valley, or the Ridge Road at dusk. You will not see anyone. Coolrain to Forelacka lanes for quiet road walking with mountain views.
Best for a food stop:
Abbeyleix. Heritage town, good cafes, Morrissey’s pub, combine with the bog walk.
Best for wild camping:
Slieve Bloom ridge near The Cut. Flat ground, views, mountain streams. Leave no trace.
Best for a quick stop (driving through on M7):
Rock of Dunamase (5 min off motorway) or Emo Court (10 min off motorway). Walk the dog, stretch the legs, back on the road.
Best for a first visit to Laois:
Glenbarrow in the morning, Abbeyleix bog boardwalk and town in the afternoon, Rock of Dunamase at sunset. That is Laois in a day.
Best overnight with the dog:
Roundwood House near Mountrath if they take dogs. Cottage Airbnb near the Slieve Blooms for the full experience.
Best for ruins with the dog:
Lea Castle on the Barrow. Massive Norman ruin, unsignposted, nobody there. The dog swims in the river below the battlements. Rock of Dunamase is more famous but Lea is the local pick.
Best for hidden glens:
The Delour Valley first, then Glenafelly. Same Slieve Bloom magic as Glenbarrow but without the car park sign pulling people in.
Best for a walk nobody else knows about:
Dysart Wood and Rath near Stradbally. A hidden ring fort inside a small wood. Clonenagh graveyard and lanes for 6th-century history on quiet farmland.
Tails Trails Treks
County Laois Dog-Friendly Guide
Slieve Bloom Mountains, bogland trails, river valleys, and Ireland’s most underrated walking county.
Always check dog policies before visiting. Information may change. Walk responsibly. Leave no trace.